Q U A R T Z

Different Types Of Quartz Crystal
There are six main groups into which crystals can be classified: triclinic, monoclinic, orthorhombic, cubic, tetragonal and hexagonal.

PHANTOMS
Are when you can see the external crystal shape as a shadow on the inside of a crystal. For example, you can have a quartz crystal and when you view it you can see what looks like quartz crystal shapes on the inside. This is caused by the growth of the crystal. The conditions that cause a crystal to grow may be interrupted. While it is not growing, a layer of another mineral grows over the top of it. Then the main crystal starts to grow again leaving an outline of the initial growth.

ZONING
This is when you can see a single crystal change colors showing what looks like a phantom. Tourmaline is really good at this. You can have a single crystal of tourmaline and when you slice it up you can get a watermelon effect where the outside is green and the inside is pink. Some tourmalines can be sliced and change with each slice.

ENHYDRO
Many crystals have small water pockets embedded within and have an air bubble that moves, this is called 'enhydro'. Quartz is the most common example, but rainbow obsidian also gets it's color this way with thousands of very small water filled pockets that are stretched out from the flowing of the lava. Once cooled, the pockets of water act as a prism creating the rainbow effect.

TWINING
Crystals can form in interesting combinations, twining occurs when you have 2 different crystals that form to make one crystal. It can form a sixling that looks like the inside of a bicycle wheel, or as with staurolite it forms perfect crosses.

C L E A N I N G   Q U A R T Z

Quartz crystals and formations in their natural state can be stained reddish brown from iron, encrusted with clay or coated in tougher minerals like limonite or calcium. With some work and the right techniques and cleaning chemicals you can reveal the sparkling beauty of a crystal.

INITIAL CLEANING
First you need to remove any clay covering your specimens. For a prize specimen use old toothbrushes, toothpicks, any wooden pointed object. If you have intricate formations or a lot of specimens to clean, try putting them outside in the shade to dry to the point where the clay cracks, then hose with a spray nozzle at maximum force. You will probably need to repeat this process several times, allowing the clay to completely dry between hosing. Make sure all clay is removed before moving on to the next step.

REMOVING ALGAE
If your specimen has organic material like algae on it, you can use household bleach to clean it. Rinse well and let it dry for 24 hours before using an acid cleaning method.

REMOVING IRON STAINS
Put the specimens in a plastic bucket and cover them with a preparation of oxalic acid solution. Be aware that too much time in the solution can turn quartz yellow. Let your specimens soak for one to several days.

If staining is very heavy or you want to speed the process along you can heat the solution by standing the bucket in the hot sun. There are some who use an old crock pot instead of a plastic bucket, and heat their acid solution that way. Be sure not to do this indoors because of the toxic fumes the acid puts off. Do not use any type of metal or aluminum container for the acid will create a toxic gas cloud, please remember to use rubber glove and a mask at all times.

When the crystals are clean to your satisfaction, rinse and rinse them again. If you have hard water in your area, it is smart to use distilled water for rinsing to prevent possible yellow staining of the crystals. Soak them in clean water for a day and then allow to dry.

** If the crystals develop a powdery coating as they dry, soak them in a baking soda solution of about 1/3 cup to a gallon of water then rinse well.

Other methods for removing iron stains include: Naval Jelly which contains phosphoric acid and is sold for getting rust off metal but will work on quartz crystals.

A M B E R

Testing For Authenticity
There are a number of simple tests which can be used to check the authenticity of amber. When examining a specimen you should try at least 2 or 3 of the following methods. If the item in question fails any one of the tests, it could well mean the piece is not true amber.

HARDNESS
Amber has a hardness on Mohs scale in the region of 2 - 3. Using scratch sticks it should be reasonably straightforward to test the sample under question.

HOT NEEDLE
Heat a needle point in a flame until glowing red and then push the point into the sample for testing. If the amber is really copal the needle melts the material quicker than amber and emits a light fragrant odor. Amber when tested does not melt as quickly and emits a sooty fume odor.

SOLUBILITY
Copal will dissolve in acetone. Dispense the acetone from an eye dropper onto a clean surface of the test specimen. Place one drop on the surface of the test piece and allow to evaporate, then place a second drop on the same area. Copal will become tacky, while amber remains unaffected by contact with acetone.

UV LIGHT
Copal under a short-wave UV light shows hardly any color change, while amber produces a pale fluorescent shade of blue.

FRICTION
Rub the specimen vigorously on a soft cloth. True amber may emit a faint resinous fragrance but copal may actual begin to soften and become sticky. Amber will also become heavily charged with static electricity and will easily pick up small pieces of loose paper.

FLOTATION (Specific Gravity)
Mix 24 grams of standard table salt with 200 milliliters of luke warm water. Stir until completely dissolved. Amber should float in such a mixture and copal should sink.

INCLUSIONS
Frequently amber contains Flora or Fauna inclusions. Correctly identifying the trapped insect or plant should be an excellent indicator of a pieces authenticity. Most inclusions from ancient amber are of species which are now extinct or have significantly changed from evolution.